Blank Patches

If at all possible, please send in/ upload a jpg, gif or bmp file.  These are the only files we can display without conversion.  So these are the only files you will be able to visually confirm. If can't don't have one of these files, we'll convert it and upload the converted file.

Either way, we will catalog your file, assign it a graphic number and estimate the stitch count.  We will send you an email with the results of our analysis along with any suggestions that might be important to your design.

Intended Use For Uploaded Design:

  1. Tee Shirts - left side chest area; Polo shirts - left side chest area or sleeve area; Jackets; Sweatshirts; Hats; Aprons; Towels; Robe; Work Shirt with Sewn Patch

Stitch Count Estimate :

As part of the evaluation of your design, we will make a stitch count estimate.  This estimate will be included in the mail you receive as confirmation of your file upload.  If the estimate is  over 10,000 stitches an extra charge will apply.  If you would like to minimize these charges, we will be happy to work with you to develop a design that is less detailed or complex. Main factors that determine the price of your custom embroidered patches and embroidered emblems: quantity,  size and the percentage that covers the embroidery .

File Types We Can Work On:

After uploading your file, you will be taken to a page that will report of the results of the upload.  If the file you uploaded is one of the following types, it will be displayed for confirmation: .jpg, .jpeg, .bmp, .gif

How to Use the Blank Patches:
The blank patches on this website are usually sold in a set of 5 pcs and they are sew on. You can put the adhesive later when you are done with your embroidery or printing. 
CREATING AN IRON ON PATCH:
The basic steps for creating patches is quite simple. First, choose a design. Once you have your design, add a satin border to the design, which can be easily done with your digitizing software. You can either stay with the standard border shapes, such as squares, rectangles or circles, or you can get creative and do what is called a custom cut where you actually make the border the same shape as the design outline. Either way, the satin stitch is the finished edge, so be sure and use a tight density to avoid frayed threads from peeking out on the sides.
Next, choose your fabric. For a nice professional look, choose a stable fabric, such as trigger cloth, tackle twill or heavy gabardine. Stabilize the fabric that's going to be used as applique with a fabric stabilizer, such as Wonder Under[TM]. Once you've stablized your fabric, you are ready to stitch.
To make patches from scratch, start with a piece of stabilized fabric larger than your hoop size. Make sure your design, with the added satin border, still fits your hoop size. Frame your fabric, keeping grain lines straight, and stitch away.
When finished sewing, remove your fabric and trim as close to the edge of your satin stitch as possible, being careful not to cut your satin edge. Once trimmed, you can peel off the paper of the fabric stabilizer and iron on the patch, or you can attach it the old fashioned way and sew it on.
You can also buy pre-made patch blanks. If you have a business license, then opening up an account with a blank patch manufacturer will be a breeze. Keep in mind that they usually have a minimum order requirement.
It is better buying the finished patches that sew on instead of the iron-on type. Patches tend to ripple with the iron-on backing, so to avoid this problem, use the plain, sew-on type. When you buy blank pre-made patches, you need to digitize a shape line. This is a placement line that goes exactly around the shape of the patch and can be easily digitized by scanning the blank patch. Once scanned in, follow the shape of the patch accurately for good registration. If you have done much applique, then you will know this shape line as an applique outline stitch. It lets you know where to place your blank patch for stitching. Once you have digitized your outline stitch for the patch you have chosen, insert your design into that shape. Make sure it is centered, or in the correct place within that outline stitching.
Once you have merged your new design with the outline stitch, you are ready to stitch. With this technique, you do not have a big piece of fabric to frame, so use an adhesive backing instead. This is a backing that is similar to Wonder Under, except that you peel the paper off to expose the sticky adhesive side.
Cut a square of adhesive backing larger than your hoop size. Frame the backing paper-side-up. Once framed, score around the inside edge of the hoop. Then peel the paper away, exposing the adhesive. The first thing that the machine sews is the outline stitch you added to your design. After it has sewn the placement line, lay down your blank patch. The adhesive will secure the patch so that you can continue sewing the design. Once the design is completed, simply tear your patch away from the adhesive backing.
Congratulations! You've successfully created your first patch. Creating patches is a cinch with the right tools and a little imagination.